Fuel Tips


Only buy the amount of fuel that will be used in 30 days

Fuel starts to go bad after 30 days so do not let it sit in your machine for longer than that. After 30 days, the volatile compounds in the fuel start evaporating, and this occurs whether the gas is in your outdoor power equipment or in the gas can.

As fuel sits and grows older, it evaporates and forms brown sticky deposits that eventually turn into a hard varnish. Deposits and varnish can plug fuel lines and passages in the carburetor, preventing the engine from running properly.

Use fuel stabilizer

Many of us use fuel stabilizers in our machine when we store them for the off-season to have an easier time starting them when the time comes. This is a good practice. When fuel stabilizers are added to fuel they separate and create a thin film on top of the fuel to keep out air and moisture. They also reduce the rate at which the fuel’s volatile compounds evaporate.

Try adding fuel stabilizer to your fuel the day it is purchased. This way, the fuel will stay fresh longer.

Don’t use gasoline with more than 10% ethanol

Engines produced for use in out door power equipment are not designed for gasoline with more than 10% ethanol. Using higher ethanol fuel blends can lead to engine damage and performance issues. Read your John Deere Equipment Manual for information on the proper fuel to use in your machine.

Use ethanol-free gasoline

Gasoline without ethanol will reduce the amount of moisture the gasoline can absorb from the atmosphere. Many areas carry ethanol-free gas. 

Purchase mid-grade gasoline with an octane rating of 87 or higher

Standard 87 octane gasoline is perfect for small engines like the ones found on lawn mowers. However, mid-grade or premium gas with an octane rating of 89 or higher can be used for engines that require the higher octane.

Again, read your owner’s manual for information on the proper fuel to use in your outdoor power equipment.


Spark Plug Maintenance


Regular maintenance keeps your Lawn  equipment running quietly and efficiently. If your lawn mower, snow blower, or other outdoor power equipment won’t start, a damaged spark plug may be the problem. Worn or dirty spark plugs cause issues for your machine, so be on the lookout for these as well.

As a rule of thumb, you should check and/or replace the spark plug on your small engine machine every year. Also check the spark plug every season or every 25 hours of use to determine whether it should be replaced. If your John Deere equipment won’t start, check and/or replace your spark plug.

To check for a damaged spark plug:

  • Turn your machine off and allow the engine to cool to the touch. Disconnect the spark plug wire to prevent accidental starting.
  • Blow or clean off the area around the plug with compressed air or a brush, making sure the area is clean. This will prevent debris from getting in the combustion chamber when removing the spark plug.
  • Remove the spark plug with a spark plug socket and clean any deposits from the plug.
  • Use a wire brush or spray-on plug cleaner to remove the deposits, or a sturdy knife to scrape off tougher deposits.
  • Check the spark plug for cracked porcelain, electrodes that have been burned away, or stubborn deposits. If you find any of these issues, change the spark plug.
  • Check the spark plug gap and adjust if necessary. Many manufacturers package new spark plugs with the cap pre-set, but it is still a good idea to double-check the gap and torque according to your owner’s manual.
  • If the spark plug is in good shape, re-attach. Make sure you don’t over-tighten the plug when replacing it.
  • Reconnect the spark plug wire and start your machine’s engine.

To replace spark plugs:

  • Disconnect the spark plug wire and clean the area around the spark plug.
  • Use a spark plug socket to remove the spark plug.
  • Check the gap on the new spark plug and replace it.
  • Tighten the spark plug but don’t over-tighten it.
  • Reconnect the spark plug wire.


12 Things to Know Before You Start Your Snow Blower


1. Buy fresh gas. Leftover gas from summer lawnmowing won’t cut it for snowblowing. Winter gas has a more volatile blend, which means quicker snowblower starts.

2. Use additive. Modern gas has a short shelflife. Old gas is actually one of the top reasons that small engines won’t start. Make gas last with a fuel stabilizer—but only add the prescribed amount. Too much, and the stabilizer gums up the snowblower carburetor. Too little, and gas gums up the carburetor.

3. Get enough gas. Blowing through deep snows burns through fuel quickly. Our small 1-gallon gas can works well for summer mowing, but our winter delivers frequent and sometimes large snowfalls. We found we needed a larger gas can to keep the snowblower going, especially when the big storms hit.

4. Clear obstacles. Before snow starts, scout your snowblowing area for objects that could jam the auger: frozen newspapers, holiday light or extension cords, a dog cable, rocks or garden hose. If stone mulch borders an area you snowblow, mark the edges so you don’t accidentally move into the gravel. In regions with heavy snowfalls, plan ahead and insert markers into soil before it freezes.

5. Adjust height. Skid shoes (also called skid plates) control how close the auger comes to snowy surfaces. Double-check these prior to cold weather. We had to make a last-minute adjustment--which required getting down on hands and knees--in a 40-degree garage. That's a cold task we don't relish repeating. If a skid shoe becomes cracked or worn, replace it.

6. Plan your attack. Think about the pattern you’ll follow to move snow and where you’ll put it. We tackled our first snowblowing during a windy blizzard, so quickly learned to work with the wind. The best place to blow snow is onto your lawn. Avoid blowing it too close to the house, and don’t forget to clear a spot near the end of the driveway for placing garbage cans.

7. Harness the sun. Time snowblowing to take advantage of solar power. Our driveway gets morning sun, so we try to clear snow before the sun gets too high in the sky. That way, the sun melts any remaining snow and gets us to bare concrete—and safer footing—sooner.

8. Start your engine. Always start the engine outside—or just inside an open garage door. For an electric start, keep a properly rated extension cord handy. We didn’t realize this for our first start. Our cords hang on a peg board—on the wall opposite from where we store and start the snowblower. With two cars in the garage, traversing from snowblower to extension cords presents an intense obstacle course. In future, I’ll move a cord over near the snowblower before winter arrives.

9. Get out early. If the forecast predicts large storm totals, start blowing before snowfall finishes. This saves gas and wear on your machine, since blowing small amounts is easier. If you clear the driveway before the plows come through, take time to blow snow along the road edge heading toward your driveway to reduce what the plow will deposit.

10. Work as a team. When dealing with deep snow or a tall plow lump, I knock down snow with a shovel so my husband can easily throw it with the snowblower. I love a bent-handle snow shovel for moving snow, but that bend doesn’t provide the necessary downward force for knocking down deep, cold-hardened snow. Use a shovel with a straight handle for best results.

11. Clean up after. After shutting off the engine, grab a broom to whisk snow off the blower. Use a clean-out tool or something similar to remove any snow from the chute. Knock snow off outside to avoid a wet and messy garage floor. Remove snow around the base and top of the chute so it doesn’t freeze into position.

12. Buy a boot dryer. In areas with frequent heavy snowfalls, a boot dryer pays for itself in the first storm. It means you can head out, blow snow for Round 1, come inside to warm up, dry your boots and gloves, and have toasty, dry gear to put on when you head out again. It's also super handy for drying mittens and hats after friendly snowball fights!